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Photo Credit: www.OrchidPlants.info
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Cattleya Orchids
Cattleya orchids are one of the favorite varieties for corsages and are often
used in bridal bouquets and wedding table decorations. Most have a distinctive
and delightful fragrance.
Even though their bloom can be very exotic and of
spectacular size, cattleya and their hybrids are considered to be one of the easier
orchids to grow in the home.
Cattleya orchids require fairly high light intensity combined with consistent air
movement and good ventilation. Mature plants should be allowed to dry slightly
between watering. If you are in doubt about watering; less is better.
During the growing period we water twice a week, alternating water and fertilizer. You
can purchase the expensive stuff in 25 pound sacks that the 'experts' try to pass on
to you, and - yes - we have done that. However, a good water soluble 30-10-10 or even
20-20-20 fertilizer which is commonly available at most any garden center will do just
as well. We pre-mix the fertilizer in a 5 gallon bucket and apply at half strength
with a hose siphoner. Reduce watering and stop fertilizing to prevent weak growth
during the colder months - but never let them dry out completely.
Most of our cattleya orchids are in clay pots with plenty pebbles on the bottom for
drainage. Slotted orchid pots are nice and pretty, but cost more than standard pots.
In addition, they can become unsightly because roots will grow out of these slots and
around the pot, also making it difficult when it comes time to repot. We use clay azalea
pots and knock out most of the bottom for better drainage. Some of our larger specimens
are in redwood baskets.
Potting medium consists of mostly medium grade tree fern mixed with about 25% shredded
redwood and coarse sponge rock. Tree fern costs a little more than pine bark, but it
makes for a cleaner, longer lasting mix with less tendency to break down and accumulate
molds or fungus. We purchase our potting mix ingredients in quantity, but you
can find small 1/2 to 1 cubic ft sizes in most larger garden outlets.
The optimum time to repot and/or divide cattleya orchids is
 when the newest growth is over the
pot edge and new roots are just beginning to emerge. Cut back all long roots that are
growing over the the edge of the pot to a length of about 2 to 3 inches. Sever the lead
growth from the plant to include at least 3 healthy mature pseudobulbs. With a sharp
knife, cut deep down into the potting mix and around the severed part in order to get
a good portion of the roots in a kind of a 'plug'.
If the mother plant is large and healthy, the remaining part of the plant (so-called
back bulbs) can be left in the pot if the mix and the plant itself are in good
condition. Just add new medium to fill the space left after removing the front lead.
Check the first stem where the cut was made. If it has one or more plump and green
nodes near the rhizome, it will send out new leads behind the cut and these will
develop a new root system. Often times such cattleya orchid back bulbs will produce
new leads and flower sooner than the newly potted front portion.
It should go without saying that any time you are cutting on a cattleya or any orchid,
either when repotting or just taking cut flowers, you should always use freshly
sterilized utensils between plants to prevent the spread of virus. We use a small
propane gas torch for this purpose.
Before repotting the new lead, clean up the plant by cutting off any remaining spent
flower sheaths and remove all old and dry material on the bulbs. This is also a good
time to check for scale insects and to take measures to get rid of them. If the leaves
have spots of water or chemical residue on them, gently remove that by rinsing with
water while rubbing with your thumb and forefinger, then let the cutting dry naturally.
For stubborn chemical spots, try to rub them off with a mixture of 50/50 milk and
water, then rinse and let dry. If it makes you feel more comfortable, you can treat
the cuts with sulphur or powdered fungicide but we don't think it necessary with a
healthy plant.
When ready to continue, select a pot large enough to accommodate the plant plus
room for about 2 years worth of new growth. Put a generous layer of pebbles in
the bottom of the pot for drainage. You can use ordinary pebbles - about 1 to 2 inches
in diameter or purchase 'river rock' or small pond pebbles at your home improvement center.
Next, add a layer of potting mix over the pebbles. Position the orchid plant with the
cut end at the very edge of the pot and fill in all around and under the roots with
more mix. Use your thumb or a tool to firmly press or tamp down the mix so that it
compresses tightly around the roots and into the pot. Don't be overly gentle - you
want a tight fit to the roots. To finish off, you will need one or more metal clips to
stabilize and support the plant. You can also add a stake and tie the individual stems
into an upright position. Last, but not least, don't forget the label with the name of
the plant and the potting date. You will find this very useful the next time the plant
is in need of repotting.
Now, unless you are dealing with an unbloomed seedling that has been potted on into a
larger pot, in which case you may want to provide lower light conditions for a few
days, the newly potted cattleya orchid can go back to the regular growing area
to be treated the same as the rest.
Don't forget to clean the used pot by scraping off roots that may still adhere inside
and outside. We usually let roughly cleaned pots wait under the potting bench or
outside somewhere until we have enough to fill a container. A 5-gallon bucket works
great for a number of pots. Soak 24 hours in a strong solution of one gallon bleach
to 4 gallons of water. We also clean and recycle the drainage rocks in the same manner.
Used metal stakes and clips can go in the same bucket but should be taken out and
rinsed in clear water after about an hour to prevent the onset of rust.
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