Photo Credit: www.OrchidPlants.info
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Dendrobium Phalaenopsis These orchids, named
for their strong resemblance to the phalaenopsis bloom were once only available
at orchid growers. They are now readily available in most garden centers.
The traditional and still most popular color is purple.
However, there is a wide selection of newer hybrids and cultivars including
white, pink, candy striped and yellow varieties.
This is a warm growing type dendrobium and individual canes
can grow up to three feet tall. They are dependable and prolific bloomers.
Tall, erect flower spikes are produced from the tip of the
cylindrical pseudobulb (cane) after foliage matures in the fall. The
inflorescence develops a graceful arch as the flowers along the stem open. Older
canes, if healthy will also generate spikes and sometimes produce keikies which
can be severed from the mother plant and potted up once they have a couple of
roots of their own.
Dendrobium phalaenopsis require medium to high light
conditions and generally thrive in the same environment as cattleyas. They need
plenty of water when in active growth and are strong feeders as well. We give
ours 1/2 strength 30-10-10 fertilizer with every other watering and an
occasional drench of the whole plant to flush out the growing medium. In fact,
these dendrobiums like to take a shower frequently during the growing season.
Reduce frequency of watering and fertilizing after blooming during the colder
months of the year.
Repotting must be done in the spring when new growth first
emerges and you can see the roots beginning to form. Do not repot an any other
time of the year. If you miss the timing, wait until next year.
When selecting a container remember small is best. Use a
clay pot just large enough to contain the root system comfortably. Cut off any
old dead pseudobulbs straight down through the rhizome and the old potting mix,
thereby removing old and unneeded roots as well. Put a layer of pebbles on the
bottom and pot tightly by tamping down the mix around the root ball. We use
medium fir bark with a little charcoal. Sometimes, as a result of a small pot,
the plant wants to topple over. You can either hang the pot or place it into
another larger clay pot and fill the surrounding space with pebbles for
stability.
There are several methods of propagation. The easiest is by
separating and potting any keikies that develop. If you have a mature plant with
at least six healthy canes, you can propagate it by division. This can be done
at the same time you are repotting. Be sure to leave at least 3 or more
pseudobulbs per plant. Make clean cuts through the rhizome and leave the back
portions without water for about a week after potting.
Another method of propagation is by cuttings. Select an
older but viable
pseudobulb and cut into sections, each consisting of a number of internodes.
Prepare a flat of either moist sand or sphagnum moss and lay the pieces on top,
pushing down slightly so good contact is made. Keep warm, moist and in somewhat
reduced light and you will soon see small plantlets appear which can be potted
individually once they have their own root system.
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